Westvleteren

Travel:
After walking out of Brugge to get a rental car, I hit the road to Westvleteren. It is tiny--not even on the map--so I drove to the next town over and asked directions. To reach the abbey, one must drive down several one-lane roads, and pay strict attention to the fairly non-descript signs, but I found my way and parked across the street at the monks' pub, "In de Vrede" (at peace?). It is really quite a modern structure, with high ceilings, exposed beams, a gleaming bar, etc. I didn't realize, but there is lots of info on the brewery and the Trappist lifestyle there as well. I ordered the blond and a smoked ham and monk-made cheese sandwich, which arrived toasted like a panini. It was deeelish... There were lots of locals sitting in there having a beer and lunch--I wonder if they know how good they have it???

I then turned to more serious tasting and ordered the other two beers, the 8 and the 12. Since I was driving, I didn't think I'd drink all of the three beers that they make, but since they are some of the best in the world, and only available at the abbey, I just didn't have the heart to pour them out. My appointment for beer purchase wasn't for two hours, so I just lingered over the beers and really got a good feel for how they changed as they warmed up, etc. It was extremely worthwhile to taste them side-by-side, and I was glad to have done so.

After all this, I went to the small store in the pub, and bought some glassware, and a six-pack of the 12 (the beer at the pickup window that day was the 8). I asked to buy a second six-pack of the 12, and the lady almost came over the counter--"NO!! SIX PER PERSON!!!" I gathered that she had been asked to sell more than six once or twice before...she definitely needs a change of scenery from her current job... :)

Finally I got in line with the car, and I have to say that the monks have quite the arrangement. If you wish to buy beer, you first must call between 9 and 12 to make a reservation, at which time you give them your license plate number. If you get an appointment (it took me an hour before the line wasn't busy), you show up at the prescribed time and follow the other cars through. You are allowed three cases of whatever they are selling that day, and no more. They do not sell to business, cafes, pubs, etc.--only individuals. You pull in, they check off your license plate number, and you load your beer and pay at the window. Smooth.

Once back to Brugge, I stopped at a mini-storage place to get a box, tape and bubble paper. I decided it would be easiest to package everything at the B&B where I was staying, and didn't want to carry the beer all that way, so I drove to the B&B before dropping off the rental car. Now mind you, I had been warned about trying to drive in Brugge. But nothing prepared me for what it actually took to get a car from A to B as an outsider--I had a great map, and it took me over an hour to go the eight blocks or so from the city ring to the B&B. Brugge is like a living Rubik's cube--if you make even a single wrong turn, you have no choice but to head back out to the ring, study the map, and try to set up the labrynth of turns all over again to reach your ultimate destination. Since I knew this in advance, I was able to have a good laugh, but by the 9th or 10th try, I was getting frustrated.

The box was truly meant to hold this case of beer--I can't begin to tell you how perfect the fit was. I used most of a 50 meter roll of bubble paper to wrap each bottle, line the box, etc. and didn't lose a single bottle on the flights home. Carrying a case of beer through European train stations is definitely a good way to build upper body strength and cardiovascular capacity, but well worth it in the end...

After the night before, it was a good time to lay low, so I had a fabulous Flemish stew at Taverne Curiosa, and had an early bedtime.

Beer:
Westvleteren--
Blond--creamy head, straw yellow, slightly tart nose (brett.), crisp and refreshing with noticeable hops. Had a creaminess on the tongue after the initial crispness, and slight tartness (brett?). Later it had a fine dusting of sediment in the glass (yeast I would guess) which became more noticeable as time passed. As the beer warmed, the tartness became much more noticeable (but pleasant in all cases).

Extra 8--Deep mahogany color, dense creamy head, very little aroma up front and very viscous after the blond. A little chocolate, crisp carbonation, balancing hops (but not more). As it warmed, there was a slight bubble gum note, and clear hazelnut. As it warmed further, hops became more apparent and a little note of bread. In my opinion, this one should be served warmer than it arrives at the table.

Abt 12--Deep mahogany brown (almost identical to the 8), dense creamy head that falls in faster than the 8, little aroma (a touch of licorice/anise). Big licorice/anise up front in the taste, viscous and warming mouthfeel. Balanced hops. As it warmed, a little rum in the nose and fruit/floral (rose???). Fig, prune and caramel became very apparent as the beer warmed also. Here again, I'd serve this one warmer than it is served at In De Vrede. This was a stunningly good beer for me.